有些保養成分妳「覺得」很好用,但為了安全,我們選擇不讓妳使用。

從品牌創立的第一天,霓淨思就專注於成分的篩選,找出對肌膚真正「好」的成分,給妳最安心、最有效的保養。 我們認為,好的成分不能只注重感受與功效,更該重視對肌膚、人體的安全性,以及對環境的影響。

我們參考各國法規,研究最新科學文獻,建立不選用成分清單,除了台灣、美國、歐盟禁用成分之外,各國機構、醫學期刊/科學報導中,雖未完全證實,但多數專家學者認為有疑慮的成分,也同樣列入在我們「不選用清單」中。

科學研究是與時俱進、日新月異的。 有些成分目前在各國機構、醫學期刊/科學報導中,專家學者持正反兩派意見,或有條件但書的,我們會列入「觀察清單」,持續追蹤相關資訊,以確保成分篩選的嚴謹與即性。 以下是我們建立的「不選用清單」及「觀察清單」,除說明成分功效、風險,以及科學研究現況外,並註明參考資料出處。

霓淨思堅信,成分篩選是安心有效保養的根本。

稟持科學研究精神,分析每個成分,才能帶妳遇見肌膚最真實的美好。

[不選用清單]

成分 原料功效 文獻證實/造成影響
SLS、SLES 界面活性劑 去脂力強的界面活性劑,會過度破壞皮脂層,造成皮膚乾燥、刺激。
CIR report : It is recognized that Sodium and Ammonium Laureth Sulfate may induce eye and skin irritation. [1]
三氯沙 Triclosan 抗菌劑 研究指出可能影響內分泌系統,且有致癌風險。
CIR report : Several endpoints that may be considered to relate to endocrine disruption by triclosan have been studied. Some studies suggesting weak estrogenic and androgenic effects, anti-estrogenic and anti-androgenic effects, and thyroid hormone-associated gene expression. [2]

FDA認為產品與皮膚接觸時間太短,無法達到「抗菌」效果,故予以禁用。
FDA banned 24 ingredients commonly used in over-the-counter topical antiseptics. These active ingredients which are now no longer ‘generally recognised as safe and effective’ include triclosan, an antibacterial and antifungal agent found in many consumer and health care products. [3]
MI/MCI 防腐劑 具有刺激性及致敏性,歐盟已禁止添加於保養品中。
SCCS opinion : Diagnostic patch tests offer, 1) the first indication that exposure to a substance is causing allergy in the population; 2) a means to compare the relative importance of contact allergens in terms of the frequency of reactions and 3) a means of following contact allergy trends over time. [4]
長碳鍊型Paraben (碳鏈碳數>3) Butylparaben/Isopropyl paraben/Isobutyl paraben 防腐劑 可能影響雌激素受體,具有干擾內分泌系統之疑慮。
SCCS opinion : With respect to the safe use of parabens as cosmetic ingredients, concern was expressed as to the potential endocrine modifying effects of parabens of higher chain length. Based upon the currently available in vitro data and in vivo rodent test results, the SCCS agrees that the estrogenic properties displayed by parabens appear to increase with increasing chain length. [5]
甲醛釋放物 防腐劑 為一級致癌物質,對黏膜、皮膚有刺激性,有引起過敏之疑慮。
CIR report : As noted in the original safety assessment of formaldehyde, aqueous formaldehyde/formalin solutions can irritate the skin and cause contact urticaria and allergic sensitization in both occupationally and non-occupationally exposed persons. [6]
BHA、BHT 抗氧化劑 EC列為雌激素干擾素;世衛和美國環保署標記為潛在致癌物。
European Commission on Endocrine Disruption: Listed BHA and BHT as Category 1 priority substances, based on evidence that it interferes with hormone function. [7]
OXY、OMC 防曬劑 研究指出會導致珊瑚白化,影響海洋生態。帛琉、夏威夷已立法禁用。
Organic UV filters (OXY、OMC) have been reported to induce acute toxicities, developmental toxicities and reproductive toxicities to different organisms. Some studies have shown that sunscreen ingredients promote viral infections in bacteria and zooxanthellae, causing coral bleaching. [8]
DEA、MEA 黏度調整劑 在體內會轉換成具致癌性的N-亞硝基二乙醇胺,且具刺激性及致敏性。
Of concern in cosmetics is the conversion (nitrosation) of secondary amines (R1 -NH-R2 ), such as DEA (wherein R1 and R2 are each ethanol), into N-nitrosamines that may be carcinogenic. [9]
環狀矽靈(四環、五環、六環) Cyclomethicone(D4, D5, D6) 修飾觸感 因分子量小及結構特性,易穿透肌膚進入體內產生生物累積,具潛在致癌性。
The critical effects of the siloxanes are impaired fertility and potential carcinogenic effects (D4, D5). Furthermore there seem to be some effects on various organs following repeated exposures. [10]



更嚴謹的把關是,經期刊或科學報導提出有部分疑慮,但因 1.證據不足 2.正常使用濃度下不具有疑慮 3.經國際機構評估仍屬於安全的成分,將持續使用,但同時列入觀察列表,追蹤相關資訊。

[觀察清單]

成分 原料功效 文獻證實
Homosalate 防曬劑 不易生物分解,有生物累積的疑慮,但目前無明顯證據顯示會達到危害生物健康或致死之濃度,因此暫時列為觀察成分。
SCCP opinion:Use of homosalate at a maximum concentration of 10% w/w in cosmetic sun screen product does not pose a risk to the health of the consumer. [11]
礦物油
Mineral Oil /Paraffin Wax
修飾觸感 本身無害,但在純化、分餾過程中可能產生多環芳香烴 (Polycyclic armoatic hydrocarbon,PAH)殘留,具刺激、致敏、致癌可能性。在使用此類成分前,需確認原料當中沒有檢測出PAH殘留。
Mineral hydrocarbons used in cosmetic lip care products shall be compliant with purity specifications on polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons(PAH). 3-7 ring polycyclic aromatic compounds which are potentially carcinogenic. [12]
PEGs 界面活性劑
修飾觸感
本身無害,但在製造過程中可能產生不純物)1,4二噁烷(1,4-dioxane)及環氧乙烷(Ethylene oxide),具刺激、致敏、致癌可能性。在使用此類成分前,需確認原料當中沒有檢測出1,4 dioxane及Ethylene oxide殘留。
CIR report: PEGs may contain trace amounts of 1,4-dioxane, a by-product of ethoxylation, this impurity may be present in PEG diesters. 1,4-Dioxane is a known animal carcinogen. [13]
直鏈大分子矽靈Dimethicone 修飾觸感 分子量小於500 Da的矽靈,有可能穿透肌膚進入體內產生生物累積,具潛在致癌性。在使用此類成分前,需確認分子量大於500 Da。
CIR report : These siloxane copolymers and related ingredients are large macromolecules (MW >500) are not expected to penetrate the skin. Several irritation and sensitization studies were negative at, or at greater than expected use concentrations. [14]
短碳鍊Paraben (碳鏈碳數≦3)
MethylparabenPropylparaben
防腐劑 目前無證據顯示MP、PP對人體有危害;SCCS、CIR皆指出在適當的濃度下可正常使用。但由於部分文獻仍指出可能有輕微致癌性,因此列入觀察名單中。
The use of methylparaben as preservatives in cosmetics is considered safe for human health. (0.4% for one ester or 0.8% when used in 18 combination.)The use of propylparaben as preservatives in cosmetic was considered as safe. (Concentrations does not exceed 0.19%.) [5]

FDA : Food and Drug Administration ,美國食品藥品監督管理局

CIR : Cosmetic Ingredient Review ,美國化妝品成分審核委員會

SCCS : Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety。 消費者安全科學委員會

EC:European Commission,歐盟執行委員會

參考資料出處